Click here to view the trekking schedule.
The Everest climbing team consists of:
| Chris Balsiger | Expedition financier, Climber |
| Robert Link | Expedition Leader, Climber |
| Tap Richards | Climbing Leader, Climber |
| JJ Justman | Climber |
| Michael Lindaas | Climber |
| Garrett Madison | Climber |
| Lhawang Dhondup | Sirdar, Climber |
| Lhakpa Nhuru Sherpa | Climber |
| Dawa Sherpa | Climber |
| Tendee Sherpa | Climber |
The trekking team consists of:
| Heidi Richards | Trek Leader, Climber |
| Christy Balsiger | Trek Leader |
| Angela Balsiger | Expedition Photographer / Trekker |
| John Erik Tveten, MD | Expedition Doctor |
| Pearish Smith, MD | Expedition Doctor |
| Michael Fagen | Expedition Weather Forecaster |
| Jenifer Barton | Food Supervisor, Chef |
| Camille Balsiger | Trekker |
| Lance Furr | Trekker |
| Jamie Furr | Trekker |
| Sonny Van Haselen | Trekker |
| David Schames | Trekker |
| Diane Schames | Trekker |
| Sam Paredes | Trekker |
| Mark Balsiger | Trekker / Island Peak Climber |
| David Bernard | Trekker / Island Peak Climber |
| Pat Gordon, Sr. | Trekker / Island Peak Climber |
| Pat Gordon, Jr. | Trekker / Island Peak Climber |
| Rick Francis | Trekker / Island Peak Climber |
| Tyler Francis | Trekker / Island Peak Climber |
| Rob Efaw | Trekker / Island Peak Climber |
For additional updates and video feeds from the Mt. Everest Expedition, check the News and What's Happening sections at www.Mountain-Link.com.
 | We’re here in Namche Bazaar. We had a weather delay in Kathmandu and ended up taking some helicopters to (static)… |
 | Its Monday here, I’m still not quite sure of the dates. We’re all at base camp. We’ve had a couple of people fall out with some sickness, and they’re going to try to make it up tomorrow. Nothing serious, but people are not used to the altitude that occurs here. Conditions here are great, and from now on I’ll be calling in everyday. Our base camp is right at the foot of the ice falls. It took them about two weeks to build. We’re in great shape and equipment is here. Our communications tent came up today, the cook tent is in place, and shower facility is in place, so all in all from a mountaineering perspective, we’re not doing too bad.
The route through the ice falls is not quite done—it’ll take about four more days. I am debating whether or not to go with some of the people that came from El Paso, going down and climbing the mountain with them. I feel good and we’ll see how it goes. You can tell here now that I’m a little bit out of breath, its just about our third day at 17,000 ft and there’s about five or six more days until we can acclimatize correctly. Real pleased with the trip. There are a lot of teams here and some of them, unfortunately, look like disasters waiting to happen. We think there have been some bad foundations laid and some people came on a really tight budget here—we all hope it will all go smooth and we hope that we’re not affected but there are some things that just don’t seem right. We, on the other hand, are not under-capitalized. We come at this with strength, and we’ll see what occurs. Probably in the next five days, to give you an idea, we’ll start with our first rotation through the ice falls, and I think we’re right on track to be in a summit position probably around May 5 or May 6. We’ve had a lot of breaks as the fall occurs, and it’ll affect the main routes, but mainly pretty darn clear. My attitude is the same as it is on every mountain. I’ll just take it one day at a time, and see if that’s good enough. I’m as strong as I’ve ever been, as positive as I’ve ever been, but who in the heck knows? We’ll just see where we are around May 5. I apologize for not calling in. Each day now, I will call in. But I urge people, since we are transmitting, to see the footage on the mountain link site which you might find more exciting. Communication Manager's Note: Weather Report at 6564 meters - A dusting of new snow, Extremely cold (max -13°C on Tue morning, min -23°C on Wed night) Mainly gales. http://www.mountain-link.com/news/Everest_2006/ |
 | It's been a week. About a week ago we took all the trekkers down to Pheriche. Helicopter came in and took all but a couple out...me, two of the pros, Mike Lindaas, J.J. Justman, and the two doctors. I think they all had a great trip. Went over to climb Island Peak and it was quite an endeavor. We didn't expect quite such a difficult peak -- it peaked out at about 20,300 feet -- a very difficult climb, very technical. And a special message to those who are going to do Island Peak, it was quite a chore. Our sherpas had strung ropes the last 300 feet because it was quite a vertical wall, but some Spaniards thought that they were entitled to our ropes and also felt entitle to chip ice down on us. It was getting late, so about 200 or 300 feet from the top, we went ahead and turned and went on down. Very exposed climbing, but it was very good for our climatization. Today, I have returned to Everest's base and (static)...
I have a hunch my message may have been garbled, but I'll suffice it to say that I've returned to base, we have acclimatized. We feel we can sleep up to 18-20,000 feet. I'm tired here at base and going to take two days off here at base (static)... I'm here and I'm a little concerned over my weight loss so I hope to put some weight back on. The root up to the ice falls was fairly stable and I'll probably call back in a few days when I have something significant to report. The trip through the ice fall is probably going to be up and down, but things change and if I'm feeling really strong, I may go on to Camp Two. No real news here at the base camp.Teams are just getting started and with all the teams here, it will be very interesting to see how it all plays out on the open mountain. I appreciate everyones support, and again, when I have something to report, I'll call back. |
 | It is Tuesday, April 18th, and we're in the midst of a storm. We were going to have two of our guys carry a load but no one in base camp is moving today so we're just using this as a reorganization day. I was not going to move anyways, as today was going to be a rest day. I'm feeling a little bit better. Still feel that I need some strength, and I have one more rest day tomorrow. We assume that this snow will cause some avalanche conditions, so I doubt we'll move tomorrow as well. You can hear the avalanches even today crashing all around, so it's not a smart thing to move. Thursday, if it has been clear for 24 hours, I expect I'll start to move up. They say the route is not as hard of an ice fall route as it was when I was here in the fall -- but I've never taken a step on a mountain that I hadn't found hard. Not much news today. That's it, and thanks.
Communication Manager's Note: Weather Report at 6564 meters - A heavy fall of snow, heaviest during Fri afternoon, Extremely cold (max -17°C on Fri morning, min -29°C on Wed night) Winds decreasing (fresh winds from the WSW on Wed night, calm by Thu night) |
 | It’s Wednesday here around 4:30, and it’s very stormy up here. This was supposed to be a rest day for me, so anyways, not a big difference down here. About two feet of snow has dumped at base camp and about 4 – 5 feet has dumped at Camp One. There are some teams that are up at Camp One that have been trapped there for several days and that’s not going to be good for their weight gain or weight loss. I know a few guys up there and they just made a mistake. They shouldn’t have spent the night in the rotation, but I think they’re safe as long as they can get down tomorrow. We’ve had our doctors that have been isolated in a village about 6 hours below us and have not been able to get back up for about two or three days… (static)...I’m still not too pleased with my breathing up here at base camp, it’s stable, but not good. Weight loss has stabilized and as many other people do, I don’t rest well – I prefer to do something. Tomorrow I probably won’t go up to Camp One because they have very unstable snow conditions and I don’t feel like getting ice and snow on top of me having already gone through that. I think what I’ll probably do is work over on the far south side of the ice falls and get some more work in climbing up some racks with a little more speed. So, that’s my schedule for tomorrow, and hopefully I’ll get up to Camp One on Friday. We are still on schedule…(static for about 1 minute)...I'll keep you posted.
Communication Manager's Note: Weather Report at 6564 meters - A heavy fall of snow, heaviest during Fri afternoon, Extremely cold (max -15°C on Sat morning, min -26°C on Wed night) Winds decreasing (fresh winds from the WSW on Wed night, calm by Thu night) |
 | Today, is Thursday. We went about 3 hours up into the ice fall. Made it about a third of the way up. The trail had a lot of holes in it. Just a handful of ladders that required a lot of big steps. A lot of ropes. Felt I did well. Moved slow for the first day...(static)...the ice falls were pretty choppy. There were a few overhangs that made you move quick. Tomorrow I don't know if I'll rest or if I'll move. I might move more deep into the ice fall. I feel I put a couple pounds back on but at the very least stopped the weight loss. The doctors arrived today and all of the climbers that were stranded at Camp One have made their way down. Feel strong and feel real pleased with my progress in the ice. I don't feel like I've had a whole lot of wasted movement...(static).
Communication Manager's Note: Weather Report at 6564 meters - A heavy fall of snow, heaviest during Fri afternoon, Extremely cold (max -15°C on Fri morning, min -24°C on Fri night) Wind will be generally light |
 | You guys may have already heard through some news reports or online the tragedy that occurred today. Basically, from our perspective, what occurred at about 7:30 this morning as teams were moving back towards Camp One, a horrific ice fall occurred right below Camp One and took three climbing Sherpas. They were buried and no hopes of rescue and they are lost. Today has been one of somber. They were well known. One was very close to several members of our team. I did not know any of them personally other than I knew them. To reflect on this, guys like me and our team, we climb for a combination of spirituality and adventure and these guys climb because it’s a job. We will do things to help the families here, but a very tough day for us.
Plans are there will probably be a Puja ceremony as the deceased were Buddhist. Then we will reassess snow conditions. The storm that we experienced was the worst, I guess in 10 years. I’m not sure if the route will be readjusted. I will probably go up tomorrow into the ice fall, but probably only up about two thirds the way. Still trying to acclimatize to get my strength, which is still improving. This was a tough day, but hopefully tomorrow will be better. Communication Manager's Note: According to a report from MountEverest.net, there has been an accident on the south side of Mount Everest. Chris Balsiger has confirmed tht no members of the Mounatin Link team are among the lost or injured. All Mountain Link team climbers and Sherpas are safe. A massive serac collapsed at the Khumbu icefall. Three Sherpas have died and at least four people are injured. The accident is reported to have taken place at around 7:30 am this morning. Reports are that it is solemn on the mountain. For more information and photos visit: www.mounteverest.net |
 | It's Monday night here. I think my last call was about the tragedy, I'm not quite sure. Took a day off. Then Sunday I went up into the ice fall again to get more familiar with the route and test my strength. Today was a rest day and tomorrow we are going to head up to Camp One. It will probably take about 8 hours. We'll spend the night and then rest and then move up to Camp Two. All in all we will be on about a 5-day rotation. Designed to just increase the strength, get familiar with the route, and acclimitize more. We are starting to get some weather reports. We are getting some good clearings. Still 80 mph winds on top. You are not going to summit anything more than 20 mph. We are feeling real strong and are real optimistic. I will hopefully be calling tomorrow from Camp One. I feel my weight is good. Down about 2 or 3, we plan to lose probably about 5-8 pounds on this rotation. Come back down and put a few pounds back on. If all goes well, I think the next time up we will be trying to summit. Take good care, and no news to report. I guess the news on Kathmandu is not really effecting us up here. I appreciate everyone's support.
Communication Manager's Note: Weather Report at 8849 meters - Mostly dry, Extremely cold (max -29°C on Mon morning, min -40°C on Tue night) Winds increasing (calm on Mon night, fresh winds from the NNW by Wed afternoon) |
 | We’re at Camp One – we had a hard day today - pretty challenging climb but no mishaps. Camp One here at 19,800 feet is where you put your tents. We’re going to take a rest day today, and move up to Camp 2 tomorrow. We feel good and we’re right on schedule, health is reasonable, if not good, and the team is looking good. It is our understanding that they started work today on the route to begin the progression up to Camp 3. If all goes well, we’re going to spend a few more days up high and try to get as much time in our acclimatization as a possible. Again, I appreciate the support and best to everyone back home.
Communication Manager's Note: Weather Report at 8849 meters - Mostly dry, Extremely cold (max -31°C on Thu morning, min -38°C on Wed night) Wind will be generally light |
 | It’s late afternoon on Thursday and we’re at Camp 2. It was a very hard day. We’re about 21,500 ft. We’ll be here a few days. Camp 2 is right at the base of the Lhotsie Face. It was tremendous coming into here. You could see the route of the Lhotsie Face to the SouthCol and you could see the summit but not the route. The mountain is shrinking (static)...
The route looks very doable, about 8,000 ft from the top. To give you an idea of how I prepare for this, I do about 7,000 vertical feet – in about 75 minutes. From here, once we’re acclimatized, it’ll take us three days. That’s just the effect of the altitude (static)... The climbing to get here has been very tough, very exposed. Definitely the toughest, most exposed climb that I’ve ever done. As I said, the team is doing well. We have one injury down at base and we don’t know the status of that. We have two from our team down at Camp 1 – I think they’re going to move up tomorrow. We’re going to spend a couple to maybe even three days here. We’re going to get fully acclimatized, maybe go down sometime this weekend to put on weight and wait for a window. I think it’ll be tough. I think I can get to the SouthCol. If I feel good and the weather is good, who knows? I know I have a one in a million shot, but I didn’t think I’d get to this camp, so I’m feeling good. |
 | Friday here – rest day today, so not much going on. The team has gotten all together – everyone that is on the mountain is at Camp 2. For some, I think tomorrow will just be a carry day. I think for me, I will just spend a few hours up on the Lhotse Face to get used to it. We’ll spend our second night here – we’re at about 21,500 feet – getting acclimatized for the summit push. Weather appears to be behaving in historical patterns. We’ll probably be up here about 3 more nights – go down, rest – and then I think we’ll be looking to be in a position…(static) |
 | End of the day here Saturday. We climbed on the Lhotse Face just a few hundred feet short of Camp 3. Felt real strong and confident. We also took advantage of the day and tried out the oxygen on me to get used to it. It's a little bit confining but it went well. I have a lot of confidence. We were almost at Camp 3 so we'll start to clear the route up to Camp 4. I'm feeling good. I'm going to spend the night here at Camp 2. Rest day tomorrrow at Camp 2 and then go down to base camp and then i think I'm set to go. With a little luck, I might get up to Camp 4 and then who knows.
Communication Manager's Note: Weather Report at 8849 meters - Mostly dry, Extremely cold (max -27°C on Sun morning, min -34°C on Sat night) Winds increasing (calm on Sun night, fresh winds from the W by Mon afternoon) |
 | We’re back down here at Base Camp, and it’s my Monday evening. Being up high was good for acclimatization, but you do get banged up a bit. We’ll be down here about three or four days to recover. Tonight we'll be analyzing weather reports to see what the future holds. Yesterday, on the North side there were some summits and Sherpas with reins and ropes that decided to go for the top and made it. We expect to hear some more summit attempts from the North side tonight. The South side is the side that we’re on. We’re stringing our ropes across from Camp 3 to Camp 4 and they’ll be in, in the next day or two. Oxygen containers are now being moved up from Camp 3 to Camp 4. And as far as I go, I tell you what – this is one hard mountain. It's really tough. If you think I have a shot to get really high, it would be a heck of a lot of luck. Just coming through the ice falls today, you can tell the heat is coming, you know summer is near. It was quite hollow, quite scary coming through. We went through quick, and there were some injuries in the ice falls today. I don’t know if this one fellow is going to make it or not. He got really sloppy and didn’t put his cramp on...(static)...he’s from the Italian team and we all hope he pulls through. I frustrate a lot of people on the route – I just think you should go by the book. Make sure you’re clipped in and take every safety precaution. We all hope he can get out to get care – the weather deteriorates in the afternoon so we’re unable to helicopter him out. When we get a weather window, we’ll leave here and move up to Camp ABC and take a rest. Then we’ll move to Camp 3 to 4 and back to ABC. It’ll be three horrendous days so we need a little extra weight to do that. My weight loss has been a little more than I want, but back here at base, with Jennifer’s cooking, that may be resolved. My best to everyone at home and I appreciate the support and we’ll see with a little bit of luck, who knows? Communication Manager's Note: Weather Report at 8849 meters - Mostly dry, extremely cold (max -27°C on Tue morning, min -34°C on Tue night) Winds decreasing (strong winds from the W on Wed afternoon, light winds from the NNW by Thu afternoon) |
 | It was a rest day. What we did today was more of a medical day. We all got checked out. We each had medical kits for each of us for stuff that has been affecting us up high. The kit also has been prepared with things for an anticipation of problems that will hit us when we go higher. I checked out fine as did everyone else. We are on medication for what ails us now. Vital signs are good...heart rate, blood pressure, everything has been checked out by our two wonderful doctors, John and Pearish. We then went over some equipment modifications that are going to have to be made for me. I'm going to be able to have to travel lighter. I'm 53 years old and I'm not going to be able to carry the weight and be in a position to try and summit with these guys. So we made those modifications on the oxygen containers, packs and some clothing. So we did that today as well.
In reference to yesterday, the Italian guy was able to be evacuated today. He did survive the night which is great and I think he has a good chance so that is now behind us. We are the first team that is set up to go in the rotation. We feel good so we are prepared to go. The earliest we may set out is Saturday but that still depends on the weather. What we are doing now is recovery. We have further checks tomorrow and will keep in touch with our Sherpa team that is up high and setting ropes into Camp 4. The weather has been snowy at night and pretty clear during the day. Tomorrow I will call in to explain the route and what we plan to do. There has been a lot of drop outs. As people take a look at the ice fall and take a look at what they thought would be an easy walk through the cwm (Western Cwm) - half of it is a straight forward climb and the rest has more ladders and crevasses. There have been a lot of drop outs as sickness comes in as well as fear and abilities come into play. That is sort of good as it will cut down the traffic on the route when the summit days open up. Tomorrow I will go into more of the route and a little bit more of our philosophy and strategy. I think we are going to adjust it a bit and I think you might find that interesting. I appreciate all the support. |
 | Today was a rest day again. Based on the weather forecast we are tentatively planning to leave for the summit early Sunday morning. What that entails is this - we will leave Sunday and will travel. Journey one will be from Base Camp to Camp One which is through the ice fall. As you know, the ice fall is very treacherous and probably some of the most exposed climbing on the route. That will take us anywhere from 6-8 hours and then we will spend the night at Camp 1. Camp 1 is right above the ice fall. Day 2 in the summit bid will move us from Camp 1 to Camp 2. That takes us through a big crevasses area and is very exposed as well but then the last half brings us through the Western Cwm. That gets us to Camp 2 in about 5 hours. Camp 2 we will spend the night and take a rest day which will consume day 3. Then assuming the weather is good we will get up on day 4 and move from Camp 2 to Camp 3. First two hours are pretty...(static)...top glacier meets the bottom glacier and makes it very difficult climbing...static...moving up to Camp 3 takes about 8 hours and we will do that without oxygen. We will spend the night there and sleep with oxygen. We will get up early the next day and move across the Lhotsie Face through the Yellow Band through the Geneva Spur into Camp 4 which will be about an 8 hour day. The exposure that day is quite a lot in the beginning of the day from the avalanche - upper reaches of the Lhotsie Face. Then you got very technical climbing through the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur. I don't expect to be met with anything that I haven't met before but it could be difficult because of the altitude. We will be on oxygen during that climb. The point of oxygen is more really of a go to in order to help keep your senses up and to help alleviate the cold. This climb is colder than Antarctica up high because of the altitude, believe it or not. We are real concerned about that but we have the special gear and cloths. We expect to move into Camp 4 on that day about 3 or 4 o'clock. We will just eat and drink and rest and then that night at 10 o'clock we will take off to the summit and be back by 5 pm the next day with a trophy - but it all depends on the weather. If we get shut down by the weather at Camp 3 we will retreat back to Camp 2 and restart the clock. If we get shut down by the weather at Camp 4 we are prepared to spend the night there and let the weather settle. There are a lot of antsy teams and they are probably going to go for the summit two days ahead of us. We hope that to be the case so that they can kick in the trail and get the soft snow out of the way for us. These are the plans and they are subject to change and right now the plans currently agree with the forecast as of today.
Right now it's late afternoon and starting to snow again as always, but it seems to be a mild day. Before we go to the summit we will check with our weatherman, who is on the payroll, right from Camp 4 to make sure there is no system in the Bay of Bengal. Most people know that it was a quick system in the Bay of Bengal that brought in the storm that killed all of the people in 1996. Health wise doing very well. Antsy, but patience now is the better part of valor. Putting weight on. Feeling good down here at Base Camp. Compared to the high camps it's like you are at the Ritz Carlton. You certainly don't want to move too fast and go up there and suffer. It's not the best living conditions. For those of you who were on the trek and felt base camp was rough - you haven't seen anything until you've seen the upper camps and those are rough. Take care. |
 | Let me bring you up to date from our last message. We were in Base Camp and planning to go back up on Sunday for the five to six days it takes to get to the summit and back. Winds came up and the Sherpas were unable to extend a rope to Camp 4 and a delay was seen as an unexpected storm moved in. At the same time, my health was not recovering the way it should be and you may have read on some other web site that there was a disease going around that was affecting throat as well as the stomach. My throat condition was creating, when I went above Base Camp, a swelling of the trachea, which would then block my ability to breathe, and was getting rather serious. Also, a few other members of the team were coming down with the Khumbu cough which could lead to the condition that I got. We had always planned to go back down and recuperate and to try to put on some more weight so our decision given the delay caused by the wind was to pull down to Pheriche which was about 4,000 ft. lower. Not much improvement there so our whole team has pulled into Kathmandu for two or three days to rest and then go back up, take one rest day at Base Camp and then shoot for the summit. This has been done before. It’s a bit unusual, but has been done before. The whole team is down and most assuredly we’ll get the strength back we need and be stronger than before. The drugs I need were also available here and so I’m on a heavy treatment of drugs to get this thing solved. Prognosis is perfect. We even think that we’ll be stronger than before – sort of reverse blood-packing - as we get more oxygen. To lose the acclimatization after we’ve been up there for five weeks would take two weeks, so our doctor feels this will even have the reverse effect – it will help our strength - and he totally endorses our decision. So we’re down here in pretty good luxury – we’ll be here for about two or three days – then shoot back up and make it a total of a ten day trip, that is as soon as the weather improves and the Sherpas are able to fix the ropes. Also, we know some teams didn’t have the luxury or the budget that we did to go to Kathmandu so we think they’ll go up premature to the summit. We think that’ll help kick in the trail for us. All in all, we think we made a good decision. Those that know the history will know the teams that go for the summit first very rarely make it. We’re optimistic. We’re going to rest and have a hot shower. |
 | The end of the day Monday here, our last day – we think, depending on weather in Kathmandu. We’ll head back up the mountain tomorrow or the next day depending on weather. The team feels very, very good. I was iffy the first two days of rest and now I’ve really responded. I have not had to go on some medicines – we were able to treat what I had topically and it seems to have worked well. We have one member, one of our pros, who has not been cleared medically to return and will stay here for an additional five days and may miss out on the summit attempt. Instead of seven, when you count me, Western climbers, we’ll be going back up with six. Still enough to accomplish what we want. We expect the fixed lines will be in to the SouthCol by tomorrow – that’s Camp 4. And it’ll take three or four days to get all our stuff moved up to SouthCol and summit position. The weather forecast is good – the jet stream is over 33,000 feet and not anywhere near us. It looks like we’re going to have a weather window – we don’t have the forecast for our summit day but we’re pretty darn close. We expect to leave for the summit Thursday and hopefully be on top sometime between the 15th, 16th or 17th – weather dependent. We feel, those of us that can return to the mountain, are just full of strength and ready to go. We understand now that another team on the mountain is trying to get down and copy us and come down to Kathmandu. A lot of teams pull down altitude, but still stay in pretty rough conditions, which I couldn’t understand, so I think they need to think a little more outside the box.
A special note to my good friend and trainer, Felix, that strength level is good and I’m very optimistic thanks to him. Got a bit of good news on the altitude – Felix believed the altitude was 8,850 meters and it’s actually 8,847 meters. And so now getting that three meter head start, I think the mountain is much more do-able. So, Felix we need to adjust our altitude there, we may have over trained. So with that said, we’re optimistic. Not much to report until we get back on to the mountain and head into hell for a few days. |
 | By the voice, you can tell I’m at base camp. We took a five hour hike up to base camp and made good time and we feel very good. We’ll probably take a rest day tomorrow and probably another rest day the day after that. I am sure those of you that go onto the Internet have heard that we have had another death on the mountain – another tragedy. A Czech climber apparently plunged, or fell, down the Lhotse Face above Camp 3. Apparently the information we have thus far is that he was not clipped in and going alpine style. I just don’t know what could have possessed him to do that. I hope there was a reason, but it appears to be a senseless death. The mood of course is not good and everyone is upset about it. They probably will not be able to get his body down – he’s too high up – and that’s rough. There are a lot of great climbers on this mountain and everyone clips on to the Lhotse Face, so who the heck knows. Like I said, it appears to be a senseless death, but hopefully I have my information wrong. It puts a mood over the camp.
When we returned to the camp, it was very reduced and a lot of groups have pulled out. Of the teams that are left, there have been a lot team members that have pulled out. There apparently were a lot of heart problems of all things. But, our team is pretty strong. Robert Link stayed behind with some blood clots in his leg so we’re down one member – we miss Robert terribly. But he is going to still command from Kathmandu and we’re in good communication with him. But I’m in good health – the rest day down at Kathmandu was great. Wish I was in a better mood because the death is not good. But I tell you what, the team behind me is sure paying off. Thanks to my yoga instructor, physical therapist, my trainers and my special trainer of late, Felix. The combination of that whole group has put me here in very good shape and in a position to try to get to the top, so thanks to that whole group. It’s amazing what that group has done with a 53-year-old body and I thank them very, very much. I’ll keep you posted tomorrow. We’re up here, of course to summit. After the break in Kathmandu this is sort of like a second trip. We’ll only be up here 10-14 days and we’re going to do everything in our power to get this son of a gun. The mountain seems to be pretty angry this year and it’s beaten up a lot of people. I think we’ll get our game face on and I think we’re up for the challenge. Thanks for your support and for the next 10-14 days, its game time. If you have any prayers or thoughts left, we’d appreciate it. |
 | It's Fridy afternoon here…rest day today. We did do a lot of work today – we went through our schedule and decided to leave for the summit on Sunday morning with an expected summit date of the 19th. Two teams left today for the summit today – a Swiss team and a Korean team. A lot of teams will leave tomorrow. The Swiss and Korean teams plan to summit on the 17th, others on the 18th and that gives us a window on the 19th. We’re looking at a little bit of precipitation on the 19th and maybe a little bit on the 20th and 21st, but we feel we’ll be ok. With that decided, then plans were made on our equipment going through the last weight reductions. I’m concerned, obviously, about weight. I need to show up with as much gas as possible and I want to haul as little as I can. So, we’re making those adjustments and changing packs – deciding on gear. It appears we may have lost another member of the team – I’ll withhold the name until tomorrow. We had a bit of a mishap on the way up here yesterday and we’ll judge the severity throughout the day and make a final call tomorrow morning. My health is good. Everyone has a little bit of the stomach flu that we think we got in Kathmandu, but we think we’ll do just fine. Tomorrow when I call in I’ll say go or no go, but we’re 99% go. This is our window. Probably unless something happens early on, this is the only go we’ll have. It sobers you up a bit to know that this is your shot and we’ll see what God holds out for us. Thank you. |
 | It’s Saturday afternoon here and as stated this was a rest day and also some teams began their summit attempts today. We are on schedule for tomorrow. We’re actually undergoing a bit of bad weather today. I always think that’s a bit of good news. Everyone is packing up and anxious to begin. Me and a couple of the pros will begin first and we’ll probably pull out of here around 5 a.m. tomorrow morning. My plan is to definitely go to Camp 1 and if I feel good and strong, I may decide to pull on in to Camp 2. This is it for us and this will be our attempt and everyone is cautiously optimistic. We are in the final week of my mountaineering career. Health-wise, some members of the team still have a bit of the stomach flu, so they're going to stay one more day to rest and then catch up. They’re quite strong. The one medical issue we had has been cleared and so that person will continue with us as well. So, with the exception of Roberts, who is in Kathmandu with his serious blood clot condition, the team is in full force and feeling real, real good. You know, like I said, this is my final group of days here and am going to do the best I can, but this is a big mountain. I have no illusions that I’m going to have to have strength, please send your prayers. |
 | We had tough weather here today so we delayed our going up. We’ll head up tomorrow. The sun came out a little bit today but very, very heavy snows up high shut down the string and ropes, so we’ll go on tomorrow. Depending on how I feel, I may skip Camp 1 and go on to Camp 2 to get us back on schedule. We’re getting a little bit worried on the extended forecast on the 20th and 21st. We’ve still got a pretty good window on the 18th and 19th and part of the day on the 20th. Probably don’t want to push it if we can avoid it. Team feels pretty good and everyone is over their stomach flu. Robert is still in Kathmandu fighting his infection and getting better. So no worries here, everyone is strong and anxious. We’ll head out at daybreak tomorrow. It’ll be hard for us to call in – I’m amazed that we did yesterday – battery power is going to be very limited. Shouldn’t impede me through Camp 2, but Camp 3, 4 and summit are probably best to tune in to…(static)…there have not been any summits from the south side yet, I believe there have been a few go up from the north. I believe the summit attempts will be on the 16th or 17th from the south and those will probably be from the Swiss and the Koreans. There have been some summits from the south side of Lhotse – our friends from Chile as well as a friend we made in Antarctica from Spain. So they summit Lhotse from Camp 3 on the face and then they push ahead and then cross over. We’re actually on Lhotse Face at 3 and then we cross over to the SouthCol for Camp 4 which splits of course at Lhotse. So really thrilled for those guys – it's nice to get some good news from the south side. You guys take care. Bye. |
 | Monday afternoon for us – we moved up the mountain today. Me and 2 others have stopped at Camp 1 and we’ll move up to Camp 2 tomorrow. Just thought it would be best for me to stay fresh. The other group – the pros – went ahead and moved up to Camp 2, along with the doctor. Weather is good. We expect good weather tomorrow. Still looking for a summit attempt in the next few days…we’ll keep you posted.
Communication Manager's Note: Weather Report at 8849 meters - Mostly dry, Extremely cold (max -25°C on Tue afternoon, min -29°C on Mon afternoon) Wind will be generally light |
 | It’s Tuesday afternoon here and we’re all safe in Camp 2. A lot of excitement here – a lot of teams are heading up and I think the first attempt for the summit from the south side will be made tomorrow. So I’ll keep you all posted. Our plans – we’re going to rest tomorrow and then we’re going to head up on Thursday morning. Weather is clear. Our summit day will be the 20th. A few teams will be going tomorrow on the 17th, but the bulk of the teams agree that the window is on the 18th – 20th. So that’s where we’re heading for. I got up to Camp 2 in good shape, real good health and not bad throat. Breath is good, acclimatization is good – so we’ll rest tomorrow and then we’ll go for it.
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 | Wednesday afternoon here – no change to what I said yesterday – today is supposed to be a rest day. We have one team member who is recovering from a little stomach flu, and he’s feeling a lot better today so I think he’ll be ready to go. The weather is holding. A lot of teams of course are moving up, but the target date we have selected is the 20th. We have enough spare oxygen and spare food that in case we don’t get to go on the 20th, we can go on the 21st. We have pretty much committed that that’s our window. We’re heading for a summit then on the 20th or the 21st. If it goes beyond that, we’re done and we’ll back out. Plan is to leave at about 6:00 tomorrow and head up to Camp 3. We’re looking at about an 8 hour day and we will not be on oxygen. As soon as we arrive at Camp 3, I will go on oxygen and the whole team will as well, to rest and rejuvenate. Next day, we’ll get up early and move out about 6:00 or so and move up to Camp 4. We expect about a 10 hour day and then we assume that within the window, we’ll be there. From the weather report, it looks like the jet stream is gone. There’s precipitation coming in around the 19th but it appears it's going to come in way below us at about 20,000 feet or even below that. Updates from there might be a bit sketchy when we move up to Camp 3 so check both web sites. Appreciate the support and everything. We couldn’t be healthier, and we’re very pleased now, in hindsight, in our decision to go to Kathmandu. Everyone is very healthy, very strong, and we’ll be fit to go. If it’s good enough, it’s good enough, if not, it’s not, but we’ll take it one day at a time. We have now committed and we’ll either summit on the 20th or the 21st or we’ll come home. See you – bye!
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 | We achieved Camp 3 – got in around 2 today. It was a tough, tough day for me – real hard – one of the toughest days I’ve ever had. And, the team, all six Western climbers are here and in good spirits. And soon as we arrived we went into our tents to relax. We’re on oxygen and that helps us rest and keeps us warm. It’s a beautiful day. Some of our friends summitted today, and weather looks clear for tomorrow and through the 20th. Tomorrow is going to be a tough, tough day as well, but I think I can do that. I tell you what though, I don’t know how I can go and get 6 or 7 hours rest and then go out and do a 16 hour day – they say the oxygen will help me, but we’ll just do the best we can. The team is just great – in good spirits. The Sherpa team will come up tomorrow on the SouthCol.
Ideally, I’m going to start my attorneys on finding out anyone that has ever written about the easy road up to the summit because it's a really broken down road – we need to sue those people. This is very difficult climbing and very technical and very hard. And words that have been written that make it seem easy take away the true achievement of the people that do summit. This is still the grand-daddy and everyone is excited. If possible, I’ll try to call tomorrow from the Col. I am having a little trouble adapting to the oxygen mask. It is very confining and I have to wear it all day tomorrow, but we’ll see. The route tomorrow is not nearly as steep as the route today, but there are some technical sections through the Yellow Band and the Spur, but as I’ve said, things don’t get any more technical as they have today. We had more vertical sections that took me by surprise. I’m tired, but I know I’ll bounce back – I know I have one more day in me but heck, I don’t know. Take care. Just an additional note, people may be interested in Camp 3. We’re right at 24,000 feet. We have three, two-man tents. We have lines all around the tent and we don’t even go outside the tent without being clipped in. There are holes all around. Camp itself, of course, is on solid rock so it’s more spread out. From here, the route is really clear and it’s always fun to see the mountain chip away. Of course if you know something of Everest, you know we’re only 5,000 feet away – less than a mile. But when you’re sucking air and taking 30 seconds for each step, you might as well be 100 miles away. I thought everyone might get a kick out of the camp and those who know oxygen, I’ll sleep tonight on 2-liter and then climb tomorrow on 3-liter and in the tough sections, I’ll crank it to 4. Goes without saying, all of us have support, but we’ve got to be realistic here. I told a real famous climber, good friend Dave Hahn, who is an American going for the record, sets the summit for western climbers, and just a real gentleman – that of the last of the surviving climbers, I am by far the oldest – makes you feel good to know that you’re a fish out of water. Hahn is a good friend with all of our team and he’ll try to summit with us. Communication Manager's Note: Weather Report at 8849 meters - Mostly dry, Extremely cold (max -25°C on Thu afternoon, min -29°C on Thu night) Winds decreasing (fresh winds from the WSW on Thu afternoon, calm by Fri night) |
 | Bad weather has come in bad in Camp 3 and 4 – heavy winds as well as precipitation…(static)…
So, weather came in – winds around 50 knots. A few teams tried for the top, and I think even a couple made it, but not without tremendous frostbite damage. We’re now down at ABC Camp. Our team had some decisions to make and there were a lot of meetings up at Camp 3 with the weather forecast and calls made to our weatherman back in Seattle. Forecast for the next three days is not good, and the summit would have to occur in 30 – 50 m.p.h. winds.—I think that’s a little beyond my strength. Me and JJ came down the mountain and you can imagine that these decisions are quite tough. We made it down the mountain before it had froze. They’re going to give it one more day – they’re about twice my size and can move quicker in the wind. It’s been a tough day. Decisions are hard – I’m sure you’ve heard that even on a good day on the North side there were three deaths – one full team just layed down and died, and that was with pretty good weather. So, prior to coming down, I chose not to sleep on oxygen last night because my mask was irritating. Bad decision – and I chose not to descend with the oxygen because I thought I was strong enough – bad decision. So, I’m down here pretty depleted ADC. I’ve lost a lot of strength, so I’m going to go on oxygen here for a couple hours. And try to get some strength back. So what’s in store for me, it looks like a summit attempt will not be in the cards for a lot of people…(static)… So, I’ve got to get back down to base…today is the 19th and we understand that the monsoon will be here on the 26th. Jet stream is closing, and the pros are going to try to punch it in on the 21st. They’re going to make a call tomorrow on whether or not that’s feasible. Winds are increasing and it appears there might be a little bit of a window on the 23rd and 24th. People are telling me to get down to base. They think my speeds are improving and my strength is there and maybe I have a shot, but I don’t know. I’m either going to go down to base on the 20th, replenish quick and then be prepared to shoot up really quick. I think from that old line from “Dumb and Dumber”, I think that’s a one in a million chance. So I don’t know, I’m going to play the lows and do my best. I’ve got to get on oxygen tonight and then I have to get some food – it’s tough, this is the last climb – and there are a lot of disappointed people on the mountain. The weather was so clear and it changed so quick and it’s caught a lot of people, killed a few people, done a lot of damage to some people. Most people are pretty smart and have pulled back down. Dave Hahn, who I have tremendous respect for, helped influence our decision when I was up at Camp 3 today, and he said “Hell, get off and get down.” He said “Either stay or drop, but don’t advance.” He’s going for the record and he’s here year after year – he always survives and he has all his digits. So, that’s where we are – I will communicate tomorrow. It’s been a rough sad day – an emotional day – to get so close and not have a shot. I’ve been there before, but you know, that’s the sport. Also, just going down from ABC Camp to base you have to cross all those darn ladders and go through the Ice Falls, and to get back up it would mean I’d have to come back through the ice falls and do another round trip. Boy, I tell you, on this mountain you’ve got to climb every stretch and going through that ice falls again doesn’t sit pretty with me. I figure you’ve only got so many safe trips through there and you can’t risk it much. You always have to look at these things realistically – there’s a lot of people up here that haven’t done this realistically. I appreciate everyone’s support. If there’s a change in weather tonight, and we wake up and see it, I’ll have been on the oxygen and then have a shot to go back up without going back down to base, that’s really what I’m hoping for because I think that is the most realistic option for me. I’m pretty good with the Face and I’m not half bad on the ropes so I think I could get back into position quick. But if I’m forced back down to base, I think that’ll be all she wrote for me. Who really knows? We went to bed last night with a good weather forecast and woke up today with terrible things and a whole new forecast, so who really knows. I’m going to be a realist and I’m sure not going to leave my body up here. I’d love to get up the mountain, but not at that expense. Communication Manager's Note: Weather Report at 8849 meters - Mostly dry, Extremely cold (max -26°C on Fri morning, min -29°C on Fri night) Winds decreasing (fresh winds from the WSW on Fri morning, calm by Sun morning) Weather Report at 6564 meters - A heavy fall of snow, heaviest during Sat afternoon, Extremely cold (max -11°C on Fri morning, min -15°C on Fri night) Wind will be generally light |
 | On Sunday morning, we had 4 of our pros proceed to the summit and achieve the summit, and five of our Sherpas. The Richards, who I believe are the second husband and wife team to achieve the seven summits -- they're very good friends of mine and have been my guides and coaches over the past 4 years -- and two other pros we took along to assist. It was all of their first attempts, as well as the first for one of our Sherpas, and we're very glad they achieved it.
So, why wasn't I there? Good question, and now we'll go back through the events. On Friday morning, I believe, we had been at Camp 3, we were poised to Camp 4 and very tough weather came in. We conferred very early with what we were going to do about the weather -- was it possible to advance? Was our summit window closed? The forecast calling for a close of the season early and into the monsoon weather pattern. Tap Richards, my good friend and acting with me, were confirming the weather reports. As you know, we had paid for weather from an "expert", Michael Faygan, who issued a report on Friday calling for bad weather. As you'll find out through this discussion, he has now admitted that on Sunday he erred, and I of course feel that he should refund the money, but that, again, is a different issue. But the affirmation we had was visual -- looking at a storm, a tough storm and that our summit window was perhaps closed. We were then faced with going into tough winds proceeding high -- wondering if I could do it – and expected precipitation was virtually guaranteed to us. So Tap and I, with my full participation in the decision, decided that it looked bleak that anyone on our team would be able to get to the summit. Worrying about the snow and the worsening conditions, JJ and myself decided to go down the mountain immediately. Tap and Heidi and the other two pros would stay in their positions to see if it would improve, but it was pretty much a concurrence that it probably would not and they'd be a couple hours behind. The five climbing Sherpas were still at Camp 2 and had not yet proceeded on to Camp 3 and on to the Col because of the bad weather that was occurring all over the mountain. JJ and I then, early Friday morning started to descend down the Lhotse Face -- very steep, very treacherous. We did have to be very careful. As we were pulling out of camp, I had made the decision over night not to sleep with oxygen because the mask irritated me and I noticed a condition that I didn't feel that my muscles were strong. We didn't drop far below Camp 3 were there is quite a sheer face of ice and of course we were clipped into lines and it was during this decent and tough weather that I lost my foot position on the face and fell, not too far, but was caught by the line. It is very interesting to note that I was clipped into the line and the line saved my fall or I would have had the same fate, had I chose not to clip, as the earlier Czech climber who died. It took an awful lot of energy then to regain position on the face to continue on the descent. JJ was just absolutely brilliant in assisting me and proceeding down the face to relative safety of Camp 2, but it zapped a lot of my strength. Trying to work very hard at 24,000 feet is a very difficult to do without oxygen -- which I had also, in my second mistake of the day, chose to descend without oxygen even though the other climbers were not. So, a couple mistakes on my part lead to me having no strength by noon on Friday. As we were coming down, and in mid-afternoon, after we had seen that the weather conditions were improving, although looked a bit unstable, Tap, being very conservative, decided not to advance or to come down, but to hold his position. By night fall, Tap was thinking if there was improving weather on Saturday morning, he would then move onto the Col. However, now with me in Camp 2, I simply did not have the strength to rejoin the group for that push. When we awoke on Saturday morning, the weather still was sketchy but a little more towards the good side, and Tap made the right call. At this point in time, I didn't have the strength to rejoin, and I doubt JJ would as well, so the remaining team on the mountain proceeds to the Col on Saturday. Friday night at Camp 2 I went on oxygen to regain my strength because even if I have to go down -- which is not as hard as going up -- I still have to go through the ice falls and have to have a considerable amount of strength. On Saturday, I had the strength to continue down, but it's too late and we missed our opening to go back up. Again, operating above 24,000 ft, I was surprised how good you can feel, but the lack of oxygen is just eating at your body and muscles. So we decided to head down while the Sherpas, who are more adapt to this, head out to meet the team at Camp 4. Saturday mid-afternoon, the Sherpas and the pros arrived at the SouthCol and about 10 p.m. Saturday night they headed for the summit, and achieved the summit about 7 a.m. Sunday morning. And then by noon on Sunday, returned to the Col safely and are sleeping after a job well done. We, of course, proceeded on down, and by Saturday afternoon we were safely in base camp. Pleased that the weather had improved and given part of our team a shot, but very disappointed in the error in the forecast, especially when you're paying for it. There's something to missing a forecast, but when a guy makes an error, it's very upsetting as you can imagine. A little bit of anger for his error. Anyway, strength wise, still with the oxygen depletion, advancing from Camp 3 would have been very difficult for me. We're very pleased that of the 13 people that were going to try for the summit, we put 9 on top, which is very good. We're very pleased with that. I'm especially pleased with Tap and Heidi -- we've been together for 4 1/2 years and were able to complete it. This was Tap's fourth attempt at Everest, so for me to be unhappy at just one attempt would be very unfair. Tap had the perseverance to go forward, and as you know, Tap gave up a summit on the North side a few years ago, to rescue a climber. That is a very interesting point because we're receiving reports that a few climbers died around the summit, and were passed by a few climbers that refused to render aid. Tap, one of the stronger climbers in the world, and on his 4th attempt, to be a part of that was just very emotional and very happy. So for Tap and Heidi's accomplishment, as well as everyone else on the team, we are very proud of that. We look at our own efforts, when you don't make it, but you still make it through hell and we're still very proud of that. It is now Sunday afternoon and we have some of our team at the SouthCol resting and the others here. With the weather forecast, there can't be another summit attempt. I don't think there's the strength or an overwhelming desire on my part to go back through the ice falls. With that, we will end the expedition with 9 of 13 on top and with tremendous pride in Tap and Heidi's accomplishment for me. This ends my four and a half years in the mountains. We climbed a lot more than just the seven, but the goal was to get seven of seven, and I guess 6.8 out of 7 will have to do. I'm proud of that. I personally feel that we had a good go, but an adventure in the mountains has to end and for me, it ends on this climb. So, as I said, win, lose or draw on this climb...and this one was a draw...this would be the last climb. As we all come down, we still have some team that have to come down through the ice falls and we're going to make sure that occurs, and we have teams to dismantle, but now within the next 5-7 days, I assume every team member will be home or wherever they want to be to recuperate. We're all anxious to get home and see our families. Some interesting things if you've been reading the news flashes and read about that two people summit or 30 people summit, it might be interesting to know the break down of that. These are approximate numbers but out of every 100 people that summit, 60 of those people are probably Sherpas. 30-35 are probably professional climbers or guides and 5-10 of those people would be dedicated amateurs as opposed to one-time shots, and I would be in that category. So, again the Sherpa people hold by far, and most of the Sherpas and the professional climbers are multiple summits, and not first-timers. A lot of the Sherpas have on average several, maybe 5-6 summits a piece -- very interesting. Two, people would also say that a decision to come down and not being in high altitude mountains was not good, and that's every mountaineers choice to judge their own ability and to have to look inside at their own strength. And as we were proceeding down Saturday through the ice falls, I got a very good reminder, a Korean girl had over-pushed and was in a stretcher. Yes, she got the summit, but will probably lose both her hands, feet, her face is disfigured and besides that personal loss, then was employing the use of 12 times, 18 Sherpas to risk their life going through the ice falls to get down, and I guarantee you that those Sherpas had come from other expeditions because she wouldn't have had that many on hers. It still is the mountaineer's responsibility to judge his own ability so as to protect himself and to not be a burden to others. Any decision that is made, in hindsight, that is made on weather and then the weather pattern changes and goes another way and it's a tough one -- but we look back and absolutely correct decisions were made and sometimes you just say, "That was the brakes." I've always cautioned not to be too hard and, my god, an expedition that put 9 of 13 up, you've got to be kidding. And that's good. You look back and everything was done. Once I get back and every team member is safe, I will leave one last update, but I think my closing will be that this is one tough mountain. I haven't heard the final toll, but it claimed it's share of lives from the north and south side and claimed it's share of injuries. It was it's usual self, just there and trying to climb it is brutal. I've learned that anyone who ventures to Everest's base camp should be admired, and anyone that goes above it, great job and anyone who summits will always have my respect, because to summit, you've got to have it all. And as our Sherpa said, "and you better have luck". So in addition to the talent, you need the luck as well. It’s a great mountain and in my after thoughts I'll tell you a little more. Sufficed to say, a very difficult mountain and impossible to know how hard. One thing, you descend from the Lhotse Face, which is very steep, and you get down to ABC Camp and you think you're safe, and then you say, oh my gosh, to get down to base camp you have to go through the ice falls which has claimed more lives than any other spot in history on the mountain. So, it's an incredible mountain and very deserving of it's title being the hardest mountain on Earth. I'm very proud to be part of an expedition and to be part of that expedition’s success. What I wanted to accomplish in this message was to give people a glimpse into our decision making at the time, because it's always easy to go back and judge after the fact but the mountain doesn't give you that much time to make decisions. Again, the support of people has been terrific, and I appreciate it. |
 | When you don’t summit, you go through anger and tremendous amounts of emotion, and trust me, everyone that climbs a big mountain is an over-achiever and is not used to losing. But then I started to reflect, and I thought how many guys have tried and failed, but what is failure? What did I really experience the last four and a half years? So, I’d like to share some of those thoughts. You know, we were leaving today, and when I showed up to meet Robert Link four and a half years ago with Christy, he asked if we had ever climbed and we said no, and he said, “Where should we start?” and we laughed and said, “Perhaps we need to buy some hiking shoes”. So we went over the REI shop after lunch and bought some hiking boots with his assistance. That just shows what poor slobs we were. And then we of course had to start with the first practice climb at Orizaba and that was Christy’s first trip where she first slept out overnight and we saw how rough and how tough that this was going to be.
Our first summit of Kilimanjaro was the first of the seven summits and that was sort of neat and while we did Orizaba with Tap and Heidi, we did Kilimanjaro with Mike and Heidi and Tap was not there. It was a few months later in Equador when the family went down to climb Cotopaxi with Tap, Heidi and Mike that we were in a hotel room after the climb that we were really talking about the seven summit goal. At that time, besides the family, Robert Link believed in the goal and I might add that nowhere in the four and a half years did he mock me or laugh at me. He coached me and supported me and it’s been great. But it was in that hotel room after the climb, while we were drinking some wine, Tap really started to believe that this thing might be possible. He got that typical flair in his eye and said “I’m in. I’m going to coach you and we’re going to do this.” Heidi agreed so Tap, Heidi, me and the family said that when possible, we’d go forward. And then I’ll never forget that night when a true, world-class climber believed in me. Going back to Orizaba, what intrigued me about Tap was that I learned the big story of Tap. The big story is that every climber wants to summit Everest, and when you summit Everest, it’s a big deal. Forget what you read, because it is a big mountain. That is the #1 mountain and that’s what you want to get. Tap missed his first attempt and I can remember that on his second attempt, he had it in the bag and decided to give up the summit to rescue two climbers. His base camp was yelling at him, told him he wouldn’t get down alive and that it couldn’t be done. Other climbers had passed by, but he did it. I can remember sitting there and hearing him say that he goes to parties and people ask him if he summitted and he said he didn’t, and I actually remember thinking, by golly, I am going to get you the opportunity for the summit. In 2003, someone beat me to the punch and he went, but on that third attempt it wasn’t going well and Tap had other commitments. Imagine Tap giving up another attempt to honor commitments and then I guess it came to my expedition to give him his fourth attempt for the summit. So then it came to my expedition, everything is aligning and this will be our last climb together. So now we come to Everest and I’m sure Tap will be upset with me for telling some things I probably shouldn’t tell. Everest is a very tough climb. We worked hard and put together a great team and I wouldn’t do anything any differently. But a climb, even though it seems long, it really boils down to a few short days when you shoot for the summit. All the other work is prep work for when you build your camps. So, we’ve done all the work, got all the rest, got the exercise and we make our move. And that day at Camp 3, of those of us that made the move, I can’t tell you what good shape we were in. We were perfect and we were poised and of course of the group, I would be the weakest one, but I still had hopes that I could get somewhat high on the mountain too. I look back now and realize, that to summit Everest on your first try, being an amateur, you talk about being a lofty goal, but what the heck…give it a shot. When we woke up the next morning and it looked like the window was shutting based on weather reports. Everyone knows the gig up high is tough, but we had our meetings, discussed options, talked to weathermen and other camps, but it boiled down to me and Tap in a tent together. We had three tents and Tap and I had a private meeting. And we were laying the facts out and I said that there was no way that I could go up in those kind of winds. I’d like to get as far as I could, but that would be a drag on the team. Tap said that he thought it was over for all of us, and with tears running down his cheek, he said, “This is my fourth attempt and I don’t think I’ll ever come back to this god forsaken mountain.” So when we walked out of the tent and I headed down, me and Tap and the whole group thought that was the end and the attempt was over. I think you can read the other reports that I descended and the weather changed. But still, Tap and Heidi and the others went up for the summit, they went up against pretty tough winds. The strength that was required was unbelievable. When I was talking to Tap on the radio – the invincible Tap, the guy that does handstands at the top – and hearing the struggle in his voice, I was thinking, “Chris, you think you had a shot?” And Tap just fought through it, but I do have to remind everyone that Heidi beat Tap to the summit by a couple steps. And Tap, Heidi and the rest of the team got it. Four attempts, and they got it. So, what does all this mean and why did I regress? I guess I’ll get there when I close, but first, thank you for everyone's support, and I actually learned to feel it. You know, you’re skeptical, and you hear, “Oh, I’ll pray for you and my good thoughts are there.” There were times that I thought that the good thoughts would lift me up by the shoulders and carry me a few steps. You want proof that there are prayers that work. Put me in front of a crowd because I really felt them. So, I thank all of you, I didn’t think it would be that interesting. I’m glad you suffered through these things and I hope you got some sort of enjoyment from it. Big thanks to Robert and the team around me – the Sherpa team climbed with me on so many mountains and their support was great. Of course Tap and Heidi, who believed and coached and were great. My family always is great and Christy, you know, never understood this goal, but supported it. She is the love of my life and I appreciate that very much. I hope I didn’t leave anyone out, but just a lot of thanks. I know what I’m about to say makes some people uncomfortable, but I give thanks to God. I tell you what, for four and a half years, I really got to know him well and he answered my prayers. There was a lot of lonely, cold nights and situations that I didn’t think I’d get through and times I wanted to go home. And you say a prayer and bingo. The long walks and good discussions, so thanks to God that I’m safe and I’m fulfilled. People will then ask, after the thank you’s, well, you almost got it, but was it worth it? Was it a success? Well, yes, it was a success. I’d have to say that it was a 100% success – that might raise some eyebrows. If you’d have asked me two days ago, I think I said that it was a 6.8 success, but that’s not true, it was a win. I made a lot of friends, saw a new world, tested myself and came through. But I think the big story was that it taught me – what is success? Was the seven summits all about me or was it about each other to achieve their goals. With Tap, Heidi and me – Heidi and I were on six of the climbs, five of the summits together. Tap missed Kilimanjaro but he was on all the rest. With them, I stood on six of the highest points on the continents and got pretty high on the other. They stood with me on them and Tap and Heidi stood on Everest. So, maybe that was it – to help each other to achieve our goals, and that's what we did. Will I try Everest again? No. This was it for me. I have no regrets because I won. So maybe we were brought together so that we all could achieve our goals together. When a guy like Tap, who had given it up, and with me, on my expedition, got the opportunity and took it, I think that’s the win for me. I can recall talking to Tap on the radio when he had gotten to the SouthCol. He had battled the winds to get there and was thinking about going for the summit in a few hours and he said, “You know what Chris? Don’t give me any darn weather reports, turn the radio off because I’m going and I don’t want to hear anything.” Then I talked to him briefly on the summit, so in a way we all got our seven summits. It was great. I won’t climb again, but I made friends forever and maybe even some quasi family members and I have no regrets. So, thank you for your support. This is the last update ever. I am a new person. I’m better and I owe it to the people that helped me through the four and a half years. So, thanks to Tap and Heidi, but behind me all the time, were Christy and God, and I thank them tremendously. Take care, and that’s it. What a great four and a half years. I left out a special thanks and mention of Heidi, who was on the first climb at Orizaba. Heidi is something special. She took her job as my coach very seriously. Every climb she made "critique" calls and took a special interest in my training and on every climb she was right there in my footsteps correcting my style, positioning and she was correcting it with passion and with love and consideration of my goals. She questioned even going to Everest as her age was mounting, she felt her strength deteriorating, and through the years – as I would call her, one of the greatest female climbers ever – she modestly would look away but with her ascent of Everest, there is no doubt that she has her position forever and we’re real proud of that. Next I’d like to make special mention of JJ Justman, who I didn’t know well before this trip, and his job on this trip was to be my guardian angel, and let me tell you, he took that job seriously. He guarded me physically and mentally. JJ is a real, dynamic, successful climber. He summitted Everest in 2004. Posing, impressive looks, Fu Man Chu tattoo, chiseled body, former Nordic ski racer from Wisconsin, with a heart of gold. For 60 days, he was there protecting me from snow, ice, others, myself and has forever won a place in my heart. Also, when we talk about climbing being done, over the four years I spent over 260 nights in a sleeping bad, 90 of those in three different trips to the Everest. Sleeping in a bag, being cold, using a hole in the snow and ice or a rock as your bathroom, being scared to death on some of these faces and climbs…yeah, I’m done. That’s enough, but it was great and changed me forever in all positive ways. But, it’s time for a bed. Goodnight. |